If the term ‘Value Bordeaux’ does not sound like an oxymoron in the current climate then I don’t know what does. The usual mad whirlwind of the en primeur campaign is in full, if slightly faltering, swing and, as ever, the prices set (demanded?) for the top wines are causing outrage and angst amongst the commentators. But it is easy to be dazzled by the fireworks and to lose sight of the big picture. Bordeaux is a vast wine-producing region and the châteaux that garner all the attention account for a minuscule percentage of the total output. There is still plenty of value to be had from Bordeaux, as I discovered at a recent tasting in Dublin.

Tindal Wine Merchants were showing some two-dozen wines, principally from the 2006, ’07 & ’08 vintages and many of them sported the lovely savoury fruit quality and judiciously balanced flavour that makes Bordeaux one of the most popular wines in the world – and perhaps the most imitated. Ch Mayne-Vallet, Côtes de Blaye 2006 (€105 per dozen ex VAT) was a tasty number that may have had a little coarseness around the edges but another year or two in the cellar should sort that. Ch du Moulin Rouge 2006, an Haut-Médoc, was more poised and elegant and came in @ €180.

A quartet of 2007s had plenty to say for themselves. Frank Phélan, Saint Estèphe (€220) had impressive depth and substance with good length. La Chapelle de Lafon-Rochet, Saint Estèphe (€230) was less substantial and lighter with a clean finish. Lacoste Borie, Pauillac (€270) was warm and welcoming with a lovely touch of cedar. Finally, an old favourite, Chasse-Spleen, Moulis-en-Médoc (€350) was admittedly getting up there in price but the lovely fruit and the well crafted elegance made a compelling argument for raiding the piggybank.

There was also an ‘odd couple’ from Château du Seuil (“just say du Say” the owner once told me). A deliciously crisp and perky 2009 white (€176) but a rather disappointing 2006 red (€188) that had little fruit to redeem the overriding stalky character. A good tasting nonetheless.

Note: all prices are per dozen bottles, ex VAT. Check: www.tindalwine.com

Tags: Bordeaux, Chasse-Spleen