Kiwi fruit, sheep, teak-tough rugby players, great runners… but wine? It is hardly 30 years since that would have been the reaction had you suggested that New Zealand might be capable of producing world-class wine. And then Sauvignon Blanc came along and changed everything. There has been no looking back since then, though I for one have long tired of strident Sauvignons with electric-shock flavours and little else. Not that they are needed any more, for the Kiwi standard is now carried by Pinot Noir and Syrah and it is my prediction that this pair will take the reputation of New Zealand wine to places that no Sauvignon ever could.

In the Syrah vanguard is a label that is relatively new to Ireland: Man o’ War from Waiheke Island whose ‘Dreadnought’ Syrah 2009 is an absolute delight. It has the gorgeous ‘accurate’ flavour sported by the best offerings from the northern Rhône, in other words it is very much a ‘Syrah’ and not a ‘Shiraz’. There’s no sloppiness, everything is precise and poised, lean yet intense with wonderful length on the finish. Its stable-mates are no slouches either, though the ‘Ironclad’ 2009 Bordeaux blend, while very satisfying in itself, just doesn’t scale the same heights. Both are available from O’Briens Wine Off Licences for €29.99. No need to say which one I would like to find in my Christmas stocking.

In the white corner comes the ‘Valhalla’ Chardonnay 2009 (€27.99) that would not be shamed by comparison with a decent Meursault or Puligny. Richness of fruit balanced by good acidity, with some savoury notes too, sees it disappearing out of one’s glass with alarming rapidity. From the same vintage there is also a superb Blanc de Blancs sparkler that hasn’t reached these shores yet. Fingers very tightly crossed that it soon does.

Bellicose names apart, these are wines of real refinement and elegance, character and individuality. If tomorrow’s hair shirt budget isn’t too crushing then I recommend them highly for Christmas.

Tags: New Zealand, Syrah