Confusing ‘good value’ with ‘cheap’ is a common error that we all fall prey to, with wines as much as any other consumer good. A bottle of wine at €27.99, even if it is sparkling wine, could certainly not be classed as cheap, but in the case of the Ridgeview Cavendish 2008 from England, now stocked by O’Briens, it represents superbly good value. What makes it so is the cast iron quality, the gorgeous rush of citrus flavours and the absence of any acidic harshness on the finish. Made from the classic champagne trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier this sparkler is a stable mate of the sparkling rosé served recently at Buckingham Place when the queen was entertaining Barack Obama.

Not all of the wines shown by O’Briens at a recent tasting could claim such exalted status and the taste buds were brought sharply back to earth by a Borie de Maurel, Belle de Nuits 2008 that plodded across the palate with 14.5% alcohol to its name and a price tag of €24.99. For half that price the Longview Estate, Yakka Shiraz 2008 carried the same hit of alcohol much more easily on its intense but not heavy frame. (Currently reduced to €12.99 from €17.99.)

A new range of Austrian wines was also on show, led by the Rabl, Grüner Veltliner Kafferberg 2009 (13%) at €19.99. This is classic Grüner: herbal, edgy and mineral with good fruit to add balance. For three Euro less the Riesling Steinhause 2010 (12.5%) gave it a tingling run for its money and, if the pennies need to be pinched further, then the Grüner Veltliner Liss 2010 (12%) at €12.99 should fit the bill. It is like a scaled-down version of the Kafferberg and its lean freshness makes it a perfect candidate for summer sipping in the garden.

Tags: Ridgeview, Sparkling, Shiraz